Friday, July 20, 2012

Franconia Ridge Traverse (Lafayette to Flume) - 7/14/2012

We battled all week with the decision of where to hike this past weekend. At the start of the week, we were set on heading up to Vermont to start working on the NE67. It was about Thursday night when we switched up the plan to go get Lafayette and Franconia Ridge. My brother was eager to get back in the summer after his unforgettable finish at Christmas. And me, don't forget my failed Pemi Loop after summiting Lafayette, making a wrong turn, and needing to descend to the road 30+ miles from my car on via road. I was just as eager, and for me I'd bag 4 July peaks, and a nice TW72 peak, so why not...let's make an early morning Franconia Ridge Traverse with sunrise from our favorite peak, shall we?

In order to accomplish that, we set our alarms for 12:45am, for a 1am departure, and 3:30am start from the Old Bridle Path. The temperature was so warm we were quickly in shorts and tank tops, where it was the perfect temperature. We made great time getting to the ridge over Walker Ravine. We were treated to an incredible view of the moon, Venus, and Jupiter, which we've seen a lot of lately. Next, as the sky became a little bit lighter, the birds starting to sing all around us, and the clouds provided a very different and intense atmosphere.
Old Bridle Path at 3:30am
A nice lil' fella we came across
Moon, Venus & Jupiter over Walker Ravine
Early summer morning over Walker Ravine 
It was still before sunrise time when we passed the AMC Greenleaf Hut. It was still quiet, but people were stirring inside. After a short break just after the hut, we kept going, pushing for the summit for sunrise (5:17am). On the approach, the sun blasting through the clouds made it look like a bright orb was above Lafayette, just in time for our arrival. It was pretty amazing.
AMC's Greenleaf Hut on Mt. Lafayette
Ascending Lafayette on the Greenleaf Trail
Approaching the summit of Mt. Lafayette at sunrise
All this time, there was only a light breeze. Now on the summit, it was different. Calm. We couldn't have been any happier with our effort and to have reached the summit at about 5:40. We had a unique morning sunrise view over the Pemi Wilderness from our favorite peak - just what we wanted. Something about Mt. Lafayette makes it just amazing every time, even those couple of times I just passed over it. We enjoyed a good twenty minutes taking in the view and talking all about the other peaks and our previous travels.





After our time at the summit, our energy was completely recharged by the beauty of what our eyes were witnessing. In addition to that, our next peak, No. Lincoln, a sub-peak between Lafayette and Lincoln, would be me 44th Trailwright 72 peak. With that, we were off along the Franconia Ridge Trail, cruising along with the awesome Pemi by our side.



I ran up ahead getting to the high point on North Lincoln (5000'), again no one else around yet. The view was essentially the same. It was quiet and peaceful, nothing but my deep breaths from bolting up ahead, then my brother came up over the rocks onto the summit. We remembered standing here the day after Christmas looking at Lafayette, and my brother about to complete all 48 peaks. What a different world it was that day with the undercast and setting sun over the Vermont Mountains. But this day, we were thrilled with sunrise over the Pemi - and on Franconia Ridge.
Greenleaf Hut and Cannon Mountain 
Summit of No. Lincoln - 44th TW72 Climb
Not too much further, the trail rises slightly once again, and we found ourselves at Mt. Lincoln.
Mt. Lincoln summit 
Pemi Wilderness from Mt. Lincoln
From here, the trail is visible in the distance ahead as it traverses the sharp ridge to Little Haystack. This was just the perfect thing to gear us up for Katahdin's Knife Edge the following weekend. From what I've read, this ridge also sometimes referred to as the Knife Edge.
Just checkin' out this cliff :) 
Little Haystack, Liberty, and Flume  
Little Haystack seen through the jagged rocks of Franconia Ridge
Bill traverses the Franconia Ridge for the second time - working on round 2
By the time we got to Little Haystack, it was stirring with a few people. There were definitely some Appalachian Trail hikers. We stopped to chat with a couple of people on the summit and take a couple of photos. After that, it was down into the trees for a little bit as we headed towards Liberty.
Cannon Mountain from summit of Little Haystack
Mt. Liberty

Mt. Liberty summit over Franconia Notch
On the summit of Liberty, we spent about 20 minutes having a nice lunch, which for both of us was a nicely sized sandwich which tasted so good after the morning's efforts thus far. We ate in silence basically with no one else around, just enjoying the views. From here, it quickly and steeply descends into the trees where it becomes another relatively easy walk to Mt. Flume.

View from Mt. Flume summit 
Mt. Liberty from Flume  

Looking back at the Traverse once more as we go into the scrub
This will be done - someday - The actual Flume slide
Now, with one car, and at this point, there was no way we wanted to go back over to Liberty, so waiting right there was the Flume Slide Trail. In the next half hour or so, we'd be called "lunatics" and "brave souls" for choosing to descend the Flume Slide Trail. When we told them we've been up the trail in both winter and summer, that seemed to make people look at us like we were even more crazy, but we continued on gingerly hopping and having a blast on our descent. We were given a heads up from someone on the ridge that the entire trail was dry, so there was no hesitation It really gave us no issues, and quickly we were at the bottom where the Flume Slide Trail turns into one of the prettiest trails there is with mossy river riverbeds and nice streams.
Descending Flume Slide Trail (summer) 
Franonia Ridge Bike Path / Pemi Trail back to Lafayette Place 
Passing by the Basin
For us, the Franconia Ridge Travesre has always challenged us, but at the same time, has never ceased to reward us with something spectacular of which to remember. Not only that, we were happy with our time, and this was good preparation for a Pemi Loop. Thanks for reading!

Hike Stats
Trails: Old Bridle Path, Greenleaf Trail, Franconia Ridge Trail, Flume Slide Trail, Whitehouse Trail/Bike Path
Distance: Approx. 15 miles
Elevation Gain: Approx. 5000 ft (fill it in later)
Book Time: 10hrs (including walk back to Lafayette)






Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Death Valley Tour 2012


On the way back to Las Vegas on June 20, 2012, which was the day following our summit of Mt. Whitney, we took a tour of Death Valley and many of its sights along the way. Death Valley was such a desolate place, an amazing place, and I was able to get a sense of how it is place where it is tough to survive.

We left Lone Pine on Route 136/190 towards Panamint Springs. Then on Route 190, we made our way towards Stovepipe Wells.

Stovepipe Wells Visitor Center
At the visitor center, we went into the store to buy Gatorades and water and see what the gift shop was all about, and we were looking how to pay our entrance fee. The girl at the counter directed us to the ranger station which was in the lot next to the store and gas station. Here, we met a ranger inside who took our fee and provided us with a map and permit for our vehicle, and we were on our way. Man it was hot outside.
Stovepipe Wells Ranger Station
Thermometer outside of Stovepipe Wells Ranger Station
Mesquite Sand Dunes
Very quickly after the visitor center lies the Mesquite Sand Dunes where there are pull-offs on the road, and its not too much of a signed area, but we pulled of, wanting to take a walk towards them off the road, watching for snakes as we passed each bush. We were now expanding this incredible trip into an even greater adventure I never expected. Later, I'd read that these sand dunes have been used in Hollywood films such as Star Wars.
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes 
Bill exploring Death Valley
Me in the middle of the desert!!!!
Continuing East on Route 190, the next major town is Furnace Creek. After Furnace Creek, in order to experience this grand tour, don't miss the turn onto Badwater Road, Route 178. It starts and ends on 190 between Furnace Creek and Shoshone, driving south, at the base of the Black Mountains to the left. Very quickly, we saw our next destination of choice, Golden Canyon.

Golden Canyon
At Golden Canyon, there is a large parking lot, and a trail head information sign. It looks like a wall of mountains with a path leading into a Canyon. I didn't know what to expect reading the sign, but we grabbed our cameras and water and took off up the trail. There were several other people exploring, as well. The trail winds up the canyon, and we looked all around to see impressive rock formations displaying many layers of rock. I am not sure how long the path winds up the canyon, but we only went about a third of a mile before turning around and heading back to the car, but so far I've hiked off the road into the desert and also into a canyon a little bit, this is crazy!




Artist's Drive and Palette
Around 6 miles south of Golden Canyon was our next interesting feature to explore, which was Artist's Drive and Palette. The sign said "No Vehicles longer than 25 feet", but we were all set. The reason is because the road to and from this spot has such severe dips so that if you have a long car, you could get stuck by your front and rear bumpers, haha! From the highway you can see the attraction, which is a display of layered rock in several colors, which is caused by oxidation of certain metals in the rock. This area was highly volcanic thousands of years ago. The road is a few miles long and is just as fun as seeing the main attraction.

Artist's Palette seen from the viewpoint on a hill a short stroll away
We have to give it up to our GMC Terrain, which we chose as our rental out of the available fleet from National Car Rental of McCarran Airport in Vegas. It struggled in terms of power and sometimes acted weird, but it was new and looked pretty good everywhere we went. Having this rental was an added element for me, being in control, doing whatever the hell we wanted miles and miles away from home. This is something that I've wanted to do, and want to do. Just get on a plane or in the car and go, and experience first-hand new places and going at it with no holding back.
Our GMC Terrain rental car and Artist's Palette
Natural Bridge
Just the name itself was reason to make this a definite stop. We arrived, and went over to look at the trail head sign. It was a 1 mile hike to the Natural Bridge through Natural Bridge Canyon. Would we do it? Would we ever get to do this again? Hike 2 more miles in the desert? Of course we did it. It was blazing hot still, now around 110-115 degrees as we were getting closet to the lowest elevation. We checked our water supplies, put on sunscreen and grabbed our hats before setting off with a steady pace and deep breaths. It was just like Golden Canyon, but a little bit wider. Quickly, we noticed that it didn't seem that bad, as we could see the bridge, which was mighty impressive. We got a little bit closer and noticed that a mountain is visible above looking through underneath it. It offered a little bit of shade for us too. The trail extends much further past the bridge, allowing for more hiking, but another one mile back to the car, which would be enough satisfaction for us after being able to see the Natural Bridge.
Looking at the trail ahead from the near the lot. 
Walking into Natural Bridge Canyon


Badwater Basin
Next, was our most anticipated destination on this journey, Badwater Basin. Badwater Basin is 282 feet below sea level, and is the lowest place in the United States and in all of North America. We had just come from the highest elevation in the lower United States to the lowest in North America. This was such an amazing experience. Badwater Pool is fed by a spring nearby, and up on the side of the mountain, across the road was a sign labeled "sea level." That was pretty cool. I can't count how many times I've heard about this place, and now I've been here, after climbing to the highest.
Badwater Basin 
Me and Bill at Badwater Basin, -282 below sea level 
Badwater Pool
Sea level sign at Badwater Basin
The trip lost a little bit of momentum after Badwater Basin as we passed the desolate Mormon Point, where the road rounded about the ridges extending to the desert floor from nearby Smith Mountain, 6000'. We also saw a sign for Manly Lake. Tens of thousands of years ago, the valley we stood in was filled with water to about halfway up the mountains we saw. That was amazing to see and think about.
Passing Mormon Point
Lake Manly - it must have looked amazing way back then
Ashford Mill Ruins
Our last destination, 30 miles from Mormon Point, was the Ashford Mill Ruins. This place of importance has a rather simple and interesting history. Long story short for you - it was someone else's property left over from the gold rush, and someone came along and found a little bit of gold, and after a dispute it turned out the prior owner didn't keep up on his stuff, so the new guy got to keep it, and then the site changed hands twice and was developed into a mill. The reason it lasted so long was because they accidentally trained in twice the amount of cement needed to build the mill. It was a very pretty place, with nice mountains surrounding it.



After Ashford Mill, the road heads into the Black Mountains where you pass through Jubilee Pass and Salisbury Pass and descend into Shoshone. Salisbury Pass is at over 3000 feet of elevation.  After leaving Shoshone, we got stuck at a road work stop for over a half hour. Road work in the desert is a little bit more difficult.
Waiting for road work after leaving Shoshone
After that restless ordeal, we were on our way out of Death Valley and out of California. California was an amazing place, and there is much more I want to see, both cities and mountains. We had about the same distance we just drove to go again before getting back to Vegas. There, we would end our amazing and unforgettable trip, having partied it up in Las Vegas with friends, climbed Mt. Whitney camping above 10,000 feet twice, and then just going all out on Death Valley.