Saturday, November 1, 2014

Mt. Rainier 2014: Exploring the Pacific Northwest

I knew last year that this summer I was going to be climbing Mt. Rainier, but come June, I did not have anything booked yet.  If I was going to go for it, my next biggest climbing goal, its simply up to me to just do it.  I watched as some of the climb dates with RMI slowly start to fill up.  It was mid-June when I pulled the trigger and booked a final spot on a Labor Day weekend climb with RMI.  Just like that, I was going to climb Rainier, and within a few short weeks I had my complete plan in place to fly out to the Pacific Northwest and join RMI for a 4-day program and 2-day summit attempt of Rainier.
(Click Here to read my first post and full adventure plan.)
This was the first time that I've ever flown alone, out of 4 round trip flights in my life.  It was going to be an adventure for sure.  I left Boston at 7:00am on Friday, August 29th, and enjoyed a nice flight into Portland, Oregon.  I flew just above the clouds for the entire route across the country, over the mountains of the mid-west, and saw Rainier and Adams just before landing.  It was pretty eerie going in for the landing through the clouds, the tarmac showed just a few seconds before the wheels hit the ground.  I don't know how the pilot saw the runway.  Anyways, and there I was in Portland, Oregon.
Leaving Logan
Sea of clouds
Mountain ranges
Rainier in the back, Adams on the right. 
After arrival, I retrieved my rental car for the week from Enterprise.  I was being offered a pick-up, a suburban, and a couple of others, but I asked about and retrieved a brand new GMC Terrain.  I drove a GMC Terrain when me and my brother went out to Mt. Whitney, so I lucked out, taking a car I've used before.  Although it would have been nice to see Portland a little bit, I drove right up to Ashford to the Whittaker's Bunkhouse.  That afternoon, I checked in and settled in.  I reserved a one-bedroom with private bathroom for 4 nights in a row, plus 1 night after my climb.  The room consisted of a double bed, two nightstands, alarm clock, ample lighting, and a full bathroom with a really hot shower.  Everything was clean, every day, and it was pretty much worth the $90 per night. That night, I did supper simple, and walked next door the Basecamp Grille and had a bacon burger, which was small but very good. 
GMC Terrain rental car
Whittaker's Bunkhouse & Motel - Ashford, WA 
Bacon burger from the Basecamp Grille
Although I did have most of the day after I arrived, I had decided to take it easy because of the cloudy, drizzly weather.  I basically settled into my little abode to plan out the next day, which I had a full day to do whatever.  I woke up the next morning (a Saturday morning) and enjoyed a coffee outside the bunkhouse cafe, not knowing what the day ahead really held for me.  All I know, was that I was going for a little road trip of exploration, so off I went.


I was eyeing a few possible hikes to do before I started the climb program.  One I was reading about is Mt. Wow (6,040'), which is a bushwhack from a nearby forest road.  The first thing I did this day was take a ride up the road to scout out the start of the hike.  The road was fine for a while, but it got pretty rough and steep.  At the end of the road, as I had read, I came to the spot where the supposed bushwhack starts.  Its kind of crazy being across the entire country, alone, at the end of and up a mountain forest road that's only wide enough for the car, and just drive-able enough. So I had scoped out this starting spot, but it certainly looked as if it was a bit too difficult to get into with my limited time the next day. Its cool to know for next time. Don't bother asking any locals about Mt. Wow, they have no idea where it is. Some info on Mt. Wow.

The start of the bushwhack to Mt. Wow, Goat Creek on left.
4 miles up a mountain road
I then drove the approximately 4 miles back down the main road, which goes into Rainier National Park.  Then I drove right past Whittaker's, and took a state highway north, headed towards Olympia, setting off on my road trip for the rest of the day.  I drove past the Capitol Building in Olympia and through the city, headed west.  Driving in the Pacific Northwest was amazing, with its super tall and straight pines.  When you see a logging area in Maine or something, it has nothing on the logging swaths which I saw while driving west toward the coast.    
Washington State Capital 
Typical highway in Washington State
I continued west and found myself in Aberdeen, WA.  At that point I was seeking a spot to take in the Pacific Ocean for the first time ever.  I seemed to notice that there wasn't really any beaches, so I knew I had to dive a little bit more south.  I looked at my navigation on my phone, and figured Long Beach would be a good target.  It took me about an hour or more to get further south, so it was interesting leg of the road trip.  I would later find out from talking to a few people that Aberdeen is considered one of the dumpier towns in Washington.  Nobody goes there. haha.
Long Beach, WA 
Long Beach, WA panorama
Eventually, I made it to Long Beach, which was a nice beach town.  It reminded me of Old Orchard, but without as much bustle and no attractions.  I parked as close as I could, and made my way out onto the beach.  The beach was beautiful and extremely large in size.  It was quite exciting, even by myself, to jaunt out to the water's edge, and step foot in the Pacific Ocean for the first time.  

The moment my feet were in the Pacific Ocean for the first time 

After spending at least a half hour or so out on the beach, I figured I would keep on trucking along my road trip loop.  I was 150 miles, and 3 hours away from Ashford.  I didn't really expect this, but as I head back out of Long Beach, I found myself at the Columbia Bridge and the Columbia River.  What an intense spot. 

Columbia River from the Washington side. 

Driving over the Columbia Bridge
I pulled off to the side next to the bridge to check my navigation, and to take a few pictures of the river and bridge.  Little did I expect, I was crossing back into Oregon, and almost near Portland again.  What a trip this was! I drove a little over 300 miles, all day long, and had quite an experience seeing some of the area.  It was a little cloudy that evening as I made my way back to Ashford.  I pretty much just missed everything nearby closing at 8:00pm, so I had to go back out about 7 miles to Pizza Express, where I indulged on a delicious large pizza to my face. 

Pizza Express 

The next day (Sunday), I had the climb orientation at 3:00pm in the afternoon.  I woke up, got some coffee and packed a super light pack for a quick hike.  I drove back up the forest road I scouted out the day before, but this time, I continued up a different fork in the road to the trail head to another peak, Mt. Beljica (5,475').  Looking for something short to hike to get in the rhythm, I had looked it up.  Again, no one around Basecamp had seemingly ever heard of Mt. Beljica (literally 4 miles away), so could not offer me any tips when I was asking for short hike suggestions. 
Whittaker's Bunkhouse & Motel Cafe
Mt. Beljica is just a short 1.4 miles  and 1,100 foot ascent from the start of the Christine Lake Trail.  There was a simple sign-in and forest permit form, which I attached to my pack.  I started up the trail, and began my first hike in the PNW, and right on the edge of Rainier National Park.
   
Christine Lake Trail 

Entering Glacier View Wilderness
The trees were huge, the trail was flat, and it was quiet and beautiful.  I entered the Glacier View Wilderness, and in just a few short minutes, came over a little bump and rounded the shores of a beautiful Christine Lake.

Christine Lake
Getting the heart rate up, I sped up the easy trail, hooked a left where there was a spur for Mt, Beljica,  The Christine Lake Trail continues on to the right for some distance.  I hopped up a rooty and eroded path, and broke out onto an exposed summit.  I head towards the highest point, and quickly realized I was on a dramatic summit with at least several hundred foot drop-off to one edge, and a pretty intense weather-y view out over the mountains near Mt. Rainier.  The cloud cover was too much to see Mt. Rainier or any glaciers, but it was an intense feeling of risk there up on the top rock of the summit, where there was a marker. A surprise for sure, and a tremendous feeling of excitement as I was back at home (over 4,000 feet) and in just a few short hours, I would be meeting my climbing team and guides.

Mt. Beljica summit marker 
Steep summit perch 
View from Mt. Beljica

The hike was a total of 2.8 miles, 1,100 feet of elevation in an hour and a half.  I drove back down the crazy mountain road, and got ready to go to the RMI climb orientation.  All this excitement, all this experience, all of which was going according to plan, and I had yet to set foot on the slopes of Mt. Rainier.  That would all start to take place shortly.  After meeting the team and guides for introductions, I decided on a solo full course steak dinner and local beer at the Copper Creek Inn & Restaurant.  The server was as friendly as could be and the food was simply excellent.  I even had their signature blackberry pie.  Feeling full, happy, and excited, I returned to my room for the night, as tomorrow, I would set foot on Mt. Rainier, and start preparing for the biggest climb of my life.

A narrow section along the forest road
Steak from Copper Creek Inn & Restaurant 

My next Mt. Rainier post will be the trip report on the mountaineering day school, and my experience climbing to the summit of Mt. Rainier with RMI Guides over two days.  Stay tuned!
Summit of Mt. Beljica (5,475')

Monday, September 22, 2014

Presidential Traverse - 9/7/14


On Sunday, September 7th, just 48 hours after the end of an exciting trip out west to climb Mt. Rainier, I set out to celebrate with a full Presidential Range Traverse.  I enjoy returning "home" and celebrating with a good adventure, taking those good feelings from a successful trip and bringing them back to savor on the peaks that got it all started.  I had eight Presidential Traverses under my belt, including four already in 2014, this would be my 5th.  I've done times of 20hrs, 15hrs, 13hrs, 10:50, 10:45, and my best previous time was 10:20.  Most of those times didn't include Jackson, or they were at night, or in winter or I was trying to do a Double Presidential Traverse.  However, the 10:20 best time was a north-bound full, including Jackson, so I found myself in Crawford Notch, with a goal to see if I could get under 10hrs.  I also just could not pass up a Presi Day, because that is what the forecast called for.
Walking from the shuttle to the Jackson-Webster Trailhead 
Jackson-Webster Trail
So then started the theme of the day, I passed some hikers on the way up.  I prefer the northbound presi traverse, as the route to the ridge and Mt. Jackson is pretty short and easy compared to the Valley Way.  From my previous traverses, I've been able to get great starts starting this way because its a lot easier when you get to the ridge faster.  When I got to the summit of Jackson, it was cool and in some clouds.  I noticed that I was at about an hour or a few minutes over that, so I was about 20 minutes behind what I've done before up to Jackson.  In true peak-bagger fashion, I was off to Pierce after a quick summit snapshot and a look around.  There were some folks enjoying the now crystal clear views from Mt. Pierce, as the clouds disappeared mostly for good.

Mt. Jackson 
Coming right up.....a beautiful and lucky September day on the Presi's
Mt. Pierce summit (1hr49min)
Even though I was cruising along, as I started to ascend Eisenhower the views and magnitude of this beautiful day started to take full effect.  It was just so fun to be up there taking it all in on such a nice day, yet at the same time I was enjoying kicking my own ass as much as possible with this workout.  Eisenhower was busy, and it was nice to see some friends Michael and Monica again (albeit quickly), who I've bumped into all over New England.  I basically left Eisenhower in a good run.  I felt like I was certainly making up for the few minutes I was disappointed about back on Jackson.  The next section over Franklin to Mt. Monroe is almost always pretty peaceful and quiet.
Mt. Eisenhower (in 2hrs 23min) 
Leaving Mt. Eisenhower 
Jefferson, Washington, and Monroe, and Oakes Gulf, and the Montalban Ridge behind it (I think)
Mt. Monroe (3hrs 20min with only 10 minutes of stopped time)
As you can see, I'm  on par with my plans, making great time at the beginning of a northbound traverse.  In 3hrs 20min, I was on Mt. Monroe, a little over seven miles and 4,700 feet of gain from the start.  It was my 14th summit of Mt. Monroe, and its always nice to think back to that morning I finished my 48 here.  After a quick pause, I ran to Lake of the Clouds Hut where I stopped only to switch out my t-shirt for my long-sleeved shirt with hood.  A quick check of the weather informed me that the wind chill was about 31 degrees up on Washington.  I was looking forward to it, as this was my 20th summit push for Mt. Washington.

Lake of the Clouds 
Final push up the summit cone         
I passed the always spectacular Lake of the Clouds, and pushed my legs up the highest peak in New England.  It took me about 45 minutes to reach the summit from LOC.  While that is a pretty solid section I was happy about, this is where it starts to get tough and I've always watched my pace start to diminish from this point on.  When I got the summit, I immediately walked past the sign and touched it.  The wind was definitely making it feel like 31 degrees which is pretty cold, especially with shorts and no windbreaker.  There, of course, was a line at the summit.  I quickly stepped in line, but after about 45 seconds, I said screw this, this is going to come back to haunt me and my goal of breaking my previous time.  I walked forward and snapped a quick summit selfie and a couple of shots of the views.

What its like to wait in line 
20th Mt. Washington summit 
On to the Northern Presidentials...
I remember taking about a 5-10 minute break on the Gulfside Trail overlooking the ravine.  Much better to take a break over here where its nice and peaceful.  After that, I continued onto Clay.  I bumped into another acquaintance from VFTT, Tim, along this section, enjoying a northern presi hike on this day.  Next was the long stretch of ascent on the approach to Mt. Jefferson.  This is where it sometimes really starts to slow you.  Trying to overcome that adversity which I was aware of, I kept pushing.  I arrived at the summit of Mt. Jefferson in six hours, just a few minutes before 3:00pm.
Mt. Jefferson, my 100th White Mountain 4000-footer in 2014 
Mt. Adams as seen from Mt. Jefferson
Certainly, I was doing well on this traverse, but I was thinking about the next four hours and the remaining 7 miles or so which puts up a beating every time.  Would I get the two remaining peaks and all the way down the 4 mile Valley Way in those four hours or was I going to fall off the pace? After a couple minutes of pondering, the mind snaps and reminds me that if its going to happen, I have keep going and not think.

The section coming down Jefferson into Edmands col can be tiring on the legs, but without stopping, I descended and then head back up about 900 feet to the summit of Mt. Adams.  It took me an hour from Mt. Jefferson.
Looking back from Mt. Adams
It was really windy, as usual, with some clouds building over Washington.  After a quick stop, I labored on using all 4 limbs to quickly make my way down the Airline Trail to Madison Hut.  Without stopping for anything, not even a pack drop, I continued up the Osgood Trail a half mile to Mt. Madison.
Mt. Madison summit (8hrs from the start)
View from Mt. Madison
Standing atop Mt. Madison, I now had just under two hours to make it down within 10 hours, and a little more to just match my best time of 10hrs 20min.  I knew I could do it, but it was going to be close.  The race was on.  I had such an incredible time above treeline on this hike.  You couldn't ask for a better gym.  I was seriously saddened to descend, but quickly my goal came back to mind, so I busted out my hiking poles, and I started my skipping, running, and jogging effort to get to my car.  Thankfully it was not as painful as it was descending here during my double presi.  I arrived at Appalachia, just a few minutes before sunset.  I finished in 9 hours and 50 minutes, beating my best time by a half hour, and getting under 10 hours.  After all, those minutes I didn't wait in line on Washington came into effect.  I was pretty darn happy about my effort, and its amazing how much you can still surprise yourself at what your capable of by always challenging yourself.  After this hike, where I pretty much didn't stop, I can say that I don't think I could do a northbound presi traverse any faster without shedding gear and the pack and running it.  I will have to try a "fast" southbound traverse someday, but for now I'm feeling good on this one, and looking forward to my next big traverse this week, the Mahoosuc Range, which I'm doing with some adventurous friends.



Hike Stats
Trails: Jackson-Webster Trail, Webster Cliff Trail, Crawford Path, Eisenhower Loop, Monroe Loop, Trinity Heights Connector, Gulfside Trail, Clay Loop, Jefferson Loop, Israel Ridge Path, Airline Trail, Osgood Trail, Valley Way Trail.
Distance: 19 miles
Elevation Gain: 8,503 ft.
Actual Book Time: 9:50
GPS Track: Garmin Adventures